Perros Viejos

Golden State 400
October,2001

 

Kevin narrates the fun and excitement  . . .

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Friday night the garage looked like a panic zone, stuff everywhere. "All I
have to do is jump on Old Reliable and go" . . . wrong. Couldn't decide what to
put in the tank bag, the four pack of Guinness, or tools. Then an insulated
bag was spied among my tools and then the plan was to put the Guinness in the
insulated bag with blue ice packs, then wrap that in paper and put that in
plastic. Works for me. I did manage to cram a change of clothes and the
necessary toiletries; after all I was rooming with Joe and I'd have to take
a shower. The pockets on the side were filled with batteries, a bottle of
water, the digital camera and a couple of very old cigars. You got to get
your priorities straight.
The Video camera had been mounted since the night before. Looking at it I
decided that it needed a little more securing. The tri pod mount that was
added to the bracket was secure enough but the thumbwheel that attaches the
camera to it looked like it could vibrate loose, so a zip tie was added to
keep it from completely falling off i.e., hitting the ground at 0 plus mph.
Frank had so generously allowed me to mount it up and returning it in a
million pieces wasn't my idea of gratitude.
I was ready and couldn't go to sleep; and just like a kid on Christmas
morning I was up before Santa slid down the chimney.
Shower, clothes, helmet, gloves, feed the animals. Pace back and forth.
"Gotta be at Joes by 7 and can't be late". Sandra was up as well, she was
excited about painting the house and was gathering her stuff together. Since
I wasn't going to be around to make a production out of things, she could
actually get something done. I still had to get money and gas and headed out
the door. After hitting the ATM the gas station was in order. I fed a 20
into the machine, filled the tank and hit the freeway forgetting my change.
Figured that cost me five bucks a gallon.
A block away from Joes I stopped to adjust the Video Camera so it was
pointing in the right direction. It would not have been good to have a video
of the street. It was dead, no lights or anything. Ok, head up the street
into Joes driveway. Joe appears on the balcony in his bath robe. "Your an
hour early" "Huh" says I? I guess I underestimated the time it would take me
to get money and gas... He waves a coffee cup and says "Come on up" and
disappears. I first want to change the batteries in the video camera, and
soon discover that the main power switch was off. I put my helmet back on
and ride down the street and turn around to document my "arrival" at Joes.
With that done I wander upstairs to the kitchen and help myself to coffee
and cake.
Ellen appears "your early" I apologize and wish her good morning, and thank
her for the delicious chocolate bundt cake. Soon enough Joe has his gear on,
we wish Ellen goodbye and go down to the garage.
After a brief conversation with the neighbor Were Off! It's a bit hazy, but
getting lighter and there's still a little chill in the air. Perfect for riding. 
The 15 is as busy as any non rush hour moment and cars hurry around
us. I bet there not going on a trip. The drivers got their Saturday morning
go to work scowls on. We putt along (Joe goes da da da dada, I ringg dinng
dingg) and soon Escondido and the Wagon Wheel is upon us.
A couple of bikes, Norton, Honda and Ducati and many cars are there. The
Jaguar contingent is well represented with an XK140, XKE and a few XJS
models. MGs and a Nash Metropolitan as well as a Shelby Cobra decorate the
parking lot. Hydrocarbons perfume the air with a hint of race gas if not,
certainly high test.
Several other bikes arrive. Norton, Triumph, Harley Davidson, Moto Guzzi and
Kawasaki. What a mixed bag, this is sure to be a great time. The waitresses
finish us off in no time as the locals are looking a bit worried. What are
all these motorheads doing here? The car people, a they were referred to
left sporadically, and all of us biker types left together. For a bunch of
individuals we sure do stick together. I try to shoot all the action shots I
can. Bikes streaming by an me passing the group. I stop ahead and get the
group in a turn. This is a blast. After the straights and sweepers of the
frontage road and 395 Lilac road is the first main turn. Twisties abound as
we head toward Bonsall.
At River road and the Mission toad area there's some confusing directions.
Is it .06 miles or 6 miles. Stay on Old River road? At last a look at a real
map and were off, as well as a few classic cars streaming by...Two lanes
each way full of cars we motored up to Fallbrook. Pico turned into De Luz
road  and the countryside turned rural. Up and down left and right. Up and
left right and down. What a pleasurable ride as well as a lot of shifting and
clutching! Sure to test your riding technique. I hit the record button on
the camera whenever I could think about it. I was pretty busy. Shaded tree
roads and bright sunshine hilltops. Avocados and the smell of various farm
types filled the air.

Temecula appeared below on the left and then in front as we dropped into the
Valley. A brief respite in the middle old town Temecula was refreshing. A
sunfilled touristy kind of day. People shopping and talking. Sunday drivers
in their cars and hotrods, even some kind of trike with a trailer and a
Batman theme with a bubble machine paraded down the street. What kind of
combination is That? It takes all kinds to make a Temecula. Some
refreshments were in order and the gang chewed the fat with the car types
for a while.

Gas up and go, a few of up got separated but we came together and made for
79 to Route 3. Temecula behind and Hemet ahead, Sunshine everywhere. I have never seen a countryside so dry, but beautiful. The roads through Sage were as twisty and narrow as any. It looked as it needed a bit of maintenance as well. Bits of blacktop had broken out of the middle of the road and kept
your attention piqued. Sand and loose dirt in the corners and across the
areas where the road crossed the washes. Windblown and treeless the area was brown. 
If not for seasonal rain this countryside would be desolate. We
passed by the Sage Volunteer Fire Department. If you didn't see the sign
you'd of thought that this was a fire truck and ambulance wrecking yard. No
order to be seen. It was as if someone just parked them here and there on a
hillside and started picking them apart, like a buzzard would carrion.
The scenery flatten out a bit and Hemet stretched out ahead. Stoplights and
stop signs were a sure sign of civilization, but still rural in flavor.
A right on 74 put us through Downtown Hemet. The epitome of any midsize town in the USA. Signs like "Save Our Hospital" and closed down stores, and then big new hardware stores gave the flavor of life here. There was a slow pace here and a hurried bustle there, but soon we were headed to what makes the area beautiful the magnificent forests and hills. 
The Alpine scenery was upon us with the constant slow sweepers as we gained elevation. Live oaks turned to pines as we crested and went toward the Desert. At the crest the Joe pulled off for a "Kodak Moment". Some of the car types went by as we snapped a few photos. I got a good video clip of the Shelby Cobra rumbling by with it's throaty V-8 and it's tuned everything.
On down over the crest an Alpine valley stretched out before us. Miles of
straights and pastures, and a few narrow bridges. Still brown from the lack
of rain made the few green patches of grass and trees that much more
beautiful. Before we knew it the lunch stop was right there...stop now! It
was already close to 1pm and I could see if we didn't keep up the pace we'd
be at the Barbara Worth until after dark. Lunch was leisurely and good. The
conversations went from cars and bikes to jokes to Afganistan and back to
bikes and cars. The "Car People left" first which sent the invisible signal
through the motorcyclists. It had been getting cooler so I put the liner in
my jacket that I had removed in Temecula.
We were off, Down through the high desert in long sweepers and some twisties
led to switchbacks above the desert. The Scenery below was incredible. Stark
mountains and huge patchworks of green separated by arid landscapes. The
sage and fragrances turned to warm dry air and that liner I'd put in my
jacket was now too warm. Pulling the zipper halfway down brought a cooling
effect, but also had a lifting effect on my helmet and my chin was
constantly in contact with the helmet. I tried to pull on my chinstrap, but
I couldn't get a good enough grip on the end to pull it any more snug. I
thrust my jaw forward, back with no effect. I zipped up the jacket and that
solved that, but then I really started to sweat and heat up. Finally Indian
wells arrived and a gas stop. It was only moments before the jacket was off
and liner removed.
Indian Wells is to say the least upscale. Rolls Royce seemed to be the
preferred mode of transportation, and coordinated tennis outfits the
secondary mode. But as we motored toward the agricultural centers the middle
and poverty stricken class became readily apparent.

111 South was a pain. Stoplight after stoplight came and went. After a while
the group got separated by stoplights, but then we got the timing right and
hit mostly greens. It wasn't till after Indio when we began to make good
time. For the desert it became particularly humid. Canals and farmland
produce many different bouquets. Fresh cut hay, cauliflower, fish ponds, and
fertilizer scents wafted into the helmet. I bet those Car People missed most
of it in their air conditioned environments, well those who had air
conditioners. Sometimes it was like having ram jet scents crammed into your
sinuses and other times just a hint, but always changing. Occasionally at
first you could see between the growth the Salton Sea stretching out
southward, and certainly you could smell it. the highway got closer and
closer and then it was only feet from the bank. The lazy stretches and turns
turned into long straightaway that seemed to reach the horizon. Only the
highway following the contour of the sea broke it up.
The bikes began to stretch their legs occasionally pinning the throttle on
the smooth sections. As I was enjoying the high harmonic pitch of a three
cylinder two stroke there was a pop and it changed to an unharmonic low
rumble. There was no loss in power, but it came readily apparent that one of
my exhaust baffles was hanging about one third the way out. That long high
rpm stretch had dried out that oily coke in the exhaust and the baffle screw
fell out.
There was no shoulder to pull onto. Looking far ahead I saw a shape on the
side of the road. It began to take form as we grew near. It was a Honda
Goldwing accompanied by Ken holding up a beer. This would be a good
place to stop.
The foresight of Ron Caudillo having a box of tools and bailing wire was a
baffle saver. A pair of needle nose and coil of bailing wire appeared so
fast you'd have thought he was on a British bike... but I was the one who
needed it. A few pieces of wire and twists of the pliers and I was back in
business. The stragglers caught up with us having been separated by the
lights in Indian Wells. The group was wandering around in the humid salty
air sipping beer and sodas. I pulled out my four pack of Guinness, which had
survived quite nice and cool in its insulated pack and distributed them
among the willing. We wandered down to the seas edge about 25 yards away and enjoyed the scents of sea air and the hints of fertilizer. There were some
dried fish on the shore looking like they had been abandoned by the sea
birds. Too salty even for them. A few SUVs came from a Picnic Area? a
hundred yards or so south and got on the road towards Mecca. Children and
dogs with their noses on the glass studied the eclectic group of riders on
their way past.
That was enough for us. There was at least 75 miles to go to the Barbara
Worth and the sun was about to fall below the mountains. My butt was getting
a bit tender at this point and I found that if I slid back on the seat,
crouched and brought my knees together a more comfortable position could be
had. For the rest of the trip I varied positions like that and made it
slightly tolerable. It got dark fast as we sped southward. it also got
buggy. gnats came in waves. the first wave caught me unaware and I got a
mouth full of salty gnats. Not surprising as they came off the sea and toward
my headlight. I tried to get ahead of the pack so I could do a U turn and
Video everyone streaming by. Then I lost another baffle. I was so close to
Niland, but I pulled over and I had a little spare piece of wire left over I
waved people by and a few stopped anyway. We got to the gas station at
Niland and I added some more of Ron’s wire.
We had been passing the same truck and a bus. Me first cause I was out ahead and had encountered the truck full of mattresses well behind the bus. By the time Chris caught up the truck was right behind the bus. As Chris went to
pass the truck pulled right out in front to pass as well, causing Chris to
slam on the brakes. Well who do you think was gassing up in Niland. That guy
hid in the gas station for at least ten minutes. I felt kind of sorry for
him... 13 angry bikers. He apologized and we were on the way again.
More bugs and it got darker and darker. There were no street lights and a
bit of cloud cover. Joe was suffering from a bit of Dim Flicker and Off,
and Ken on the mother ship took the lead. Since the first wave of bugs hit I
had pulled the protective cover over the Video camera. I don't know how he
knew where to spray, but there was a crop duster busy above and to the right
of us. Apparently the wind was drifting southwest and he would swoop to the
northeast and let the spray drift over the field. There was a hint of
Malathion in the air so I don't think he was spraying the cars with
smallpox. I thought this would make a good video clip and just when he
swooped I turned it on. Perfect timing, except for the cloth bug protector
cover which was over the lens it would have been a good shot.
Except for a last minute wrong turn we soon made it to the Barbara Worth.
the 'Car People' had arrived long before us and gave us a round of applause.
they soon invited us for Champagne in the parking lot, and a round of
motorhead trip talk After checking in and "freshening up" we met in the bar. Excellent company and food followed at dinner at 7:30 which was a Prime Rib buffet. After several trips we headed out to the parking lot to enjoy a cigar and a chat before checking in.

I was up before dawn, but didn't venture out for a while. Joe stirred about
the same time I did and we agreed that the beds were as Joe put it "like
sleeping on a stack of magazines". In Ellen’s defense, Joe does snore, well
more like a snort now and then. It had rained a bit and the bikes were a
little damp. I took a towel. much to the Hotels dismay I’m sure and wiped
the bugs off my helmet and leathers. The salt and bug smell brought back
instant memories of driving past the Salton Sea. Nothing like sense memory
to bring it all back to you. I used another towel to dry off my seat and
wipe the bugs from the headlight. I was tempted to wipe the fork tubes as
well, but they were a little oily, and that would not come out in the wash.
I used an old rag from under the seat for that.
Breakfast at the hotel was very good, but service was soo sssllloooowww. The
French press coffee was very tasty, but you could only get a cup about every
half hour. We had a seat outside and they were setting up for a golf
tournament from SDSU. I was hoping for some co eds to be walking around, but alas there were none.
It was once again Riding Time! Bikes were gassed up the night before and as
usual on this trip the Car People got away before we did. Mike had a great
suggestion to modify the initial route to keep us away from Downtown El
Centro. More long and straight roads divided by farm land separated by a jog
left right now and then till we gassed up in Westmoreland. For whatever
harebrained notion I had I thought everyone was ready to leave and I headed
out with about 6 bikes. I thought we hadn't hit 78 yet so I proceeded North.
A beautiful road ensued with a few jogs and then a big right sweeper that
continued east toward the horizon. Thinking that we were going toward 86 I
continued, but then as I was deciding to stop and check the map, Pierre
zoomed up along side saying something about Joes bike. A U turn ensued and
we powered it back to where Joe was off to the side of the road.
Beer thirty was declared as Joie explained what went wrong. He had been
having an occasional power problem then he heard a huge bang and the motor
stopped. He thought the worst, but when stopped the bike had compression
with no clanking or other dangerous noises. Gas was ok, then Ron
proclaimed, “your light's not on". A fuse was suspect and then a battery wire
was found to be melted. Joe surmised that he had pinched it with the oil cap.
A replacement was fabricated in short order and Joes bike was kicked to
life. During the repair Chris pulled out his map and showed me the error of
my ways. We were headed for Calipatria; the opposite side of the Salton Sea
where we were supposed to be. When we had stopped for gas we were already on the correct road.
Back we went and 20 miles later we were back on track going up the west side
of the Sea. More long desert highways, but this time the wind was blowing
from the mountains to the sea and we got desert smell instead of Sea smell.
There was a bit of moisture in the air leftover from the T storms. this was
a four lane road so we shared it with the desert rats coming back from the
dunes. Their trucks and trailers hauling all sorts of machinery from tiny
three wheelers to the most tricked out sand rails. Some with only a sleeping
bag and a cooler to full on forty foot motor homes. All had the same look,
that look of 'back to work tomorrow and I'm beat from powering over the
desert". Salton city approached and that meant the left on S22 to Borrego.
What a fun road. Except for the first half mile which has more whoop de doos
than the back side of a moto cross course. After the initial half mile
standing up ride the road opened up with sweepers galore. Loong straights
were finished with perfectly banked sweeping turns that begged to be
exploited. there were only three cars in a 27 mile stretch. We were zooming
and passing, swaying and braking slightly; constantly setting up for the
next set of turns. Next thing it was all over too soon, but time to relax a
Christmas Circle. The refreshment wagon arrived right on time. At this point
the group decided to take different routes, although everyone agreed that
the girl riding the bicycle up the street in spandex and calf high horse
riding boots looked a little out of place. She did stop and give Pierre’s
MotoGuzzi the once over, must have been that sexy Italian look.
Gene, Ken, Ron and Barbara decided to go south and go up Banner grade and
then over to 8 while the rest of us decided to go up Montezuma grade. Pierre
was going to do Mount Palomar (where did he get the energy?) the rest of us
were going to follow the route and at least have lunch at the Lazy H.
Jim and Mike left town first, followed by Joe, Chris, Pierre and I. Halfway
up the grade Pierre pulled away on his torque monster never to be seen again
presumably to hit Palomar. The "Glass Elevator" as Montezuma grade is called
by some is always a pleasure to ride up or down. the vistas are incredible.
Sheer drop offs of two to three thousand feet break away from the road just
past the guard rail. Exhilarating! On top is purported to be the coldest
place in the county, Ranchita, and it didn't disappoint either. Of all the
rain we didn't see on the trip it had to sprinkle and be cold there. It is a
straight road out of there so it didn't last long and we made the right on
S-2 toward 79 and Lake Hodges. the air was still cool and moist and the
Suzuki responded. We hit the power and diced back and forth. I pinned the
throttle like never before and it stretched it's legs. After a good long I
backed off and immediately the power collapses to nothing. I switched to
reserve thinking the main got plugged. I hit the kill switch and it really
died. turning it back on it started to rumble and kicked back to life. I had
run it so hard that I had drained the float bowls.
Very quickly we were at the intersection of S-2 and 79 with a very sorry
sight. Mike and Jim were off the road accompanied by two CHP's. I was going
to turn on the video camera, but I had covered the lens during the sprinkle
in Ranchita. I circled them in the dirt parking lot to offer support, but
Jim surreptitiously waved us by. I took his advise and motored away at a
conservative speed. From then on I thought there'd be a cop on every corner.
Following the roll chart we past The Hideout where the requisite 100 or so
Harleys were parked, don't they ever really ride those things? Then down the
road to the Lazy H for lunch. The Car People were still there! Even though
there were now only three of us they gave us a warm welcome. they had only
been there for a half an hour. I think they were trying to make us feel
good. That little restaurant has real good food at reasonable prices. Great
place for a lunch ride.
There was still more exciting roads in store. Lunch gave me that second wind
and Cole Grade road offered the scenery and twisties to boot. Up and over
and through Valley center it went. A right on Lilac and then a left on West
Lilac Rd. I thought I'd seen it all that weekend, but that West Lilac road
is twistier than a reggae lock of hair. Five and ten mph turns abound over
and over again, at last some downward sweepers and toward Old 395 and the
end of the Golden State 400. We pulled off and documented on video that we
finished the route. What a route it was and our congratulations to the
planners for another fantastic Golden State 400!

Kevin J. Sisterson
11 2001
 

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At the Wagon Wheel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Between Fallbrook & Temecula

 

 

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Stop in Temecula

 

 

 

 

 

 

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South of Hemet

 

 

 

 

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Flying Buffalo

 

 

 

 

 

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Salton Sea

 

 

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Hooligans by the Lake

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The morning after

 

 

 

 

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Stranded . . . briefly

 

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"Sparky" helps out

 

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Pierre passes the Duc at warp speed

 

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Salton Sea to Borrego Springs

 

 

 

 

 

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End of the Trail

(never over 55mph!)